A spirits’ boost for gelato

Embracing the latest trend, Simone De Feo’s looking for the same balance of ingredients in a cup as for a typical mixology glass

 

From Strawberry, Almond and Chartreuse to Coconut, Lime and Veritas flavours: in collaboration with the bartender Antonio Lugli, Simone De Feo, gelato maker and owner with his partner Monia of the two Cremeria Capolinea stores in Reggio Emilia (Italy), explores the mixology world and creates, as of now to the end of the year, a gelato based on artisanal spirits premium.
Raspberry, Neve Terrae gin and rosemary in July; Peach, cocoa and Hampden Rum in August; September will be the turn of Pumpkin, whiskey and thyme; Mango, Savanna and basil in October; for two latest months of the year Tesseron and Calvados, combined with hazelnut and butter the first, with vanilla, apples and orange zest the other.
Alcoholic gelato is the latest trend in terms of cold desserts. But Di Feo specifies that his creation is not a reference to a drink in a cone or cup, “it is not a gelato cocktail nor an affogato, but an artisanal gelato prepared with a liqueurs percentage, selected and used inside of the recipe”.

The importance of the vision and texture’s mixologist

Regarding his novelty, De Feo underlines the attention to the texture, obtained also thanks to the inclusion of the single spirit: the artisanal gelato, prepared with a significant percentage of distillates and spirits carefully selected and used throughout inside the various recipes. The experimentation in pairings of various ingredients typical of mixologists inspired him, as he will also explain on June 24th in the Baragalla store, at the event dedicated to pairings with Lugli.
“I wanted to paraphrase cold, texture and enjoyment, that is the three fundamental elements to describe the experience of each drink, inside the gelato, to have fun by experimenting with the use of spirits. Those who have created sorbets inspired by more traditional cocktails remained within the context of artisanal gelato parlors. My challenge is to adopt the typical vision of mixologists, accustomed to exploring different combinations, capable of enhancing the taste of each individual ingredient. Furthermore, I wanted to reproduce the tactility dimension, the palate experience of spirits. The texture as well as the flavor is a fundamental characteristic to define a well-made gelato.”

In the name of flowers and herbs

Among Simone De Feo’s recipes we present Chamomile, honey and Chartreuse, taking inspiration from that of Torta Quiete by Stefano Venier, gelato and pastry chef of Venier, L’Arte del Dolce in Spilimbergo, Pn (published in n.356 of “Pasticceria Internazionale”), which remembers it for a duo of ingredients in common: the chamomile flowers and the cream in which they are infused.
In this gelato, the chamomile stands out on a retro-olfactory level, emphasized by the presence of Chartreuse, a liqueur produced in Voiron, in Southern France, based on an ancient recipe from 1605, by the Carthusian monks, composed of 130 herbs and with an alcohol content of over 40%.
De Feo is a passionate expert in beer and spirits; he has been experimenting with its use in recipes for some time, having started with the preparation of desserts in jar up to the Spirits Selection, continuing with the Pandoro with the scent of River Antoine and now with alcoholic gelato. These peculiarities make him awarded and, together with Compagnia dei Gelatieri colleagues, a teacher of the Gelateria Contemporanea course at Alma, International School of Italian Cuisine in Colorno, Pr.

C.M. and E.B.

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