Frenchman Mickaël Besse is a fine pastry chef who fully deserves the ‘citizen of the world’ moniker.
His professional career begins at the end of the nineties in his home country, where he works in several Michelin-starred restaurants – at Régis and Jacques Marcon’s Le Clos des Cimes in Auvergne, and at La Pyramide with Patrick Henriroux in Vienne – as well as in luxury Relais & Chateaux hotels, before moving to Lebanon as pastry chef at the five-star Hotel Le Vendôme. In 2006 he decides to make another move in his career, with the next destination being India, at Chennai (ancient Madras, in southern India), where he takes up the executive pastry chef role at the first Indian multiplex chain SPI Cinemas by managing pastry production and restaurant service. But it doesn’t end there: in 2007 he creates Ecstasy by opening at the premises a new restaurant. Finally in 2009 Besse starts up his own company as international consultant in pastry, restaurant and hotel business, thus making the most of the know-how acquired over many years of intense activity at the service of diverse customers in various countries (besides India he has worked in China, Japan, United States…). www.mickaelbesse.com
CHERVIL & CHICORY
Chicory Jelly
brown sugar g 50
water g 220
chicory soluble g 40
gelatin g 4
Boil all the ingredients together except the gelatin, then leave the infusion for 10 to 15 minutes. Once the gelatin is soaked and drained, melt it into the warm syrup, then sieve. Pour it in a glass bowl up to 6 mm. Keep in the refrigerator.
‘‘Roman’’ Chervil Cream
honey g 100
zucchini skin g 400
‘Roman’’ chervil g 15
mango flesh g 425
Granny-Smith flesh (with skin) g 225
water l 1
Boil all ingredients in a heavy-based stainless steel pan for 20 to 30 minutes, blend all ingredients into a food processor then sieve. Keep in the refrigerator.
Rose & Beetroot Candied Leaves
rose petals q.s.
beetroot leaves q.s.
egg whites q.s.
icing sugar q.s.
Select clean petals/leaves that have a sufficient size to be candied. Moisten the petals with an egg white wash made by beating or whisking an egg white. The wash can be applied with a soft bristled brush to the delicate petals or the entire flower. The petals can then be wiped with icing sugar. Remove the excess from the petals by gently shaking it. Lay the petals on wax paper and allow them to dry thoroughly, which may take 4 to 8 hours.
Other
candied celery (brunoise) q.s.
mango stick q.s.
chicory jelly stick q.s.
gianduja/walnut q.s.
Assembly
Arrange the garnish (candied celery, mango et chicory gelee cubes) on the top of the chicory jelly then pour over delicately the ‘‘Roman’’ chervil cream. Decorate with a quenelle of chestnut (or milk) sherbet, ‘‘Roman’’ chervil, half gianduja/walnut and some candied leaves.
CERFEUIL & CHICORÉE
Gelée chicorée
sucre brun g 50
eau g 220
chicorée soluble g 40
gélatine g 4
Porter à ébullition l’ensemble des ingrédients (sauf la gélatine), laisser infuser 10 à 15 minutes à couvert. Réhydrater la gélatine avant de l’incorporer au liquide encore tiède, puis chinoiser. Verser la gelée dans des bols en verre sur 6 mm d’épaisseur, laisser prendre en chambre froide.
Crème de cerfeuil ‘‘Romain’’
miel g 100
peau de courgette g 400
cerfeuil ‘‘romain’’ g 15
chair de mangue g 425
chair de Granny-Smith (avec peau) g 225
eau l 1
Porter à ébullition l’ensemble des ingrédients pendant 20 à 30 minutes dans une casserole en inox à fond épais, mixer ensuite le tout puis chinoiser. Refroidir la préparation sur glace, réserver en chambre froide.
Pétales de rose & betterave cristallisées
pétales de rose q.s
jeunes pousses de betterave q.s.
blanc d’oeuf q.s.
sucre glace q.s.
Sélectioner des pétales et jeunes pousses dont la taille est suffisante pour la cristallisation. À l’aide d’un pinceau, en humidifier légèrement les surfaces de blanc d’oeuf battu avant de les enrober aussitôt d’une fine pellicule de sucre glace. Les ranger sur une feuille de Silpat et laisser cristalliser à l’air libre pendant 4 à 8 heures.
Autre
céleri branche confit (brunoise) q.s.
bâtons de mangue q.s.
bâtons de gelée chicorée q.s.
noix/gianduja q.s.
Montage
Déposer la garniture (brunoise de céleri, bâtons de mangue, gelée chicorée) sur la gelée de chicorée, recourir délicatement de crème de cerfeuil ‘‘romain’’. Surmonter le tout d’une quenelle de sorbet marron (ou lait), de morceaux de noix/gianduja, de pousses de cerfeuil ‘‘romain’’, de quelques pétales et jeunes pousses cristallisées. Servir aussitôt.
Mickaël Besse
Neufchâteau, France
www.mickaelbesse.com